While the Giant's Causeway draws crowds by the thousands, the coastal villages tucked between the Nine Glens of Antrim and the Irish Sea remain beautifully uncrowded. These are working communities where fishing boats still land catches, locals gather in century-old pubs, and traditional whitewashed cottages cling to hillsides above harbors built by Victorian engineers.
I've spent years exploring these villages while researching Antrim's medieval history and plantation heritage. Each village has its own character - from Glenarm's castle estate to Cushendun's National Trust cottages, from Carnlough's limestone harbor to Ballycastle's seaside energy. This guide takes you through the villages in sequence as they appear along the coast, with the history, highlights, and practical details you need to explore them properly.
Understanding the Nine Glens
These coastal villages are gateways to the Nine Glens of Antrim - the glacial valleys that slice inland from the coast, each with its own river, character, and Gaelic name. The glens created natural routes inland during medieval times and shaped settlement patterns that persist today.
The traditional rhyme lists them: "Glenariff, Glenaan, Glenballyeamon, Glenarm, Glencorp, Glendun, Glencloy, Glenaan and Glenshesk." Most villages sit where a glen meets the sea, with rivers flowing through the heart of each settlement.
Until the Antrim Coast Road was completed in the 1840s, these communities were relatively isolated - more connected to Scotland across the narrow North Channel than to the rest of Ireland. That Scottish influence persists in architecture, place names, and local culture.
Glenarm: Castle Village and Marina
Glenarm is the southernmost of the coastal villages, sitting at the mouth of Glenarm Glen where the river meets a horseshoe bay. It's also the most aristocratic - dominated by Glenarm Castle, the seat of the Earl of Antrim and the McDonnell clan for over 600 years.
Glenarm Castle and Estate
The castle itself isn't open to the public (it remains a private family residence), but the walled garden opens seasonally from May through September, and it's spectacular. Dating from the 1750s, the garden combines formal parterres with relaxed herbaceous borders, kitchen gardens with cutting gardens, and centuries-old fruit trees with contemporary planting.
The annual Dalriada Festival in late July opens the castle and estate for a weekend of medieval reenactment, traditional music, food markets, and historical demonstrations. If your timing aligns, it's the best chance to see the castle interior and experience the estate fully.
The Village and Marina
Glenarm village clusters around the Altmore River, with the old Barbican Gate marking the entrance to the castle estate. The village has retained much of its 18th and 19th-century character - color-washed buildings, narrow streets, the old market house.
The marina, opened in 2002, has brought new life to the harbor. Sailing boats fill the berths in summer, and the marina provides sheltered mooring unusual on this exposed coast. Walk the breakwater for views back to the village and castle towers rising above the trees.
Glenarm Forest, just behind the village, offers waymarked walking trails through mixed woodland. The easiest route (30-40 minutes loop) follows the river with waterfalls and pools. More challenging trails climb higher into the glen with panoramic coastal views.
Carnlough: Limestone Heritage and Harbour
Carnlough, seven miles north of Glenarm, was built on limestone. The village developed in the 19th century around limestone quarrying - the white stone was shipped out through the purpose-built harbor to destinations around Britain and Ireland.
The most distinctive feature is the limestone arch bridge carrying the old railway that transported stone from the quarries above the village down to the harbor. This bridge crosses the main coast road - you drive underneath it entering the village. The railway closed in 1960, but the bridge remains, a monument to Carnlough's industrial past.
The Harbor and Village
The harbor sits in a natural amphitheater, surrounded by white limestone cliffs. It's a working harbor still - fishing boats land catches, and pleasure boats use it in summer. The harbor featured in Game of Thrones (Season 6) as Braavos, which brought tourist attention though locals barely notice anymore.
The Londonderry Arms Hotel dominates the harbor front - a handsome coaching inn with literary connections (Winston Churchill owned it briefly in the 1920s after inheriting it from a relative). The building dates from 1848 and retains period charm.
Walk north from the harbor along the shore path toward Garron Point - rocky shore, rock pools at low tide, views to Scotland on clear days. It's a pleasant 30-minute walk each way.
Best for: Harbor photography (especially evening light on limestone cliffs), quiet pubs, base for Glenariff waterfall walks (5 miles inland).
Cushendall: Capital of the Glens
Cushendall calls itself the "Capital of the Glens" - the largest of the villages with the most services and the strongest sense of being a real working community rather than just a tourist stop.
The Curfew Tower
Cushendall's most distinctive landmark is the Curfew Tower - a four-story red sandstone tower standing at the main crossroads. Built in 1817 by Francis Turnly, who developed much of the village, it was supposedly used to confine "idlers and rioters." Whether it actually served that purpose is debatable - it's more likely Turnly built it as a folly and employment project.
Today it's merely decorative (not open to the public), but it gives Cushendall a unique architectural anchor. The village's main streets radiate from this crossroads with shops, pubs, cafes, and services.
Village Life and Cafés
Cushendall feels more lived-in than the other villages. You'll see locals doing shopping, children walking to school, farmers' trucks parked outside the hardware shop. This authenticity makes it appealing - you're visiting a real place, not a preserved tourist village.
Harry's Restaurant on Mill Street serves excellent food - contemporary Irish cooking using local ingredients, particularly seafood. Book ahead for dinner, especially summer weekends.
The Central Bar and Joe McCollam's are the traditional pubs - both serve decent food, both have character, both welcome visitors mixing with regulars.
For cafés, Mary McBride's on High Street is popular with locals - full Irish breakfasts, good coffee, homemade scones.
The village also has ATMs, a pharmacy, small supermarket, post office - useful if you're touring the coast and need services.
Cushendun: National Trust Village
Six miles north of Cushendall, Cushendun is the most architecturally distinctive coastal village. Much of it is owned by the National Trust and protected for its unique Cornish-style cottages designed by architect Clough Williams-Ellis in the 1920s.
The Village and Architecture
Lord Cushendun commissioned Williams-Ellis (who later designed Portmeirion in Wales) to create a model village here in the 1920s. The result is a cluster of whitewashed cottages with slate roofs, rounded corners, and Arts and Crafts details - more Cornwall than County Antrim, but beautifully done.
The cottages sit around a square opening to a sandy beach where the River Dun meets the sea. It's remarkably picturesque - hence National Trust protection to prevent inappropriate development. Walk through the square and along the beach - the cottages are private residences but externally protected.
The Caves
Just south of the village, accessible via a short walk from the bridge, are the Cushendun Caves - natural sandstone caves carved by sea and weather over millennia. They're dramatic - 400 million years of geology visible in the layered rock formations.
Game of Thrones fans know them as the location where Melisandre gave birth to the shadow creature in Season 2. This brings a steady stream of visitors, but the caves were fascinating long before HBO arrived. The National Trust has added viewing platforms and information panels.
Access is free, always open, about 5 minutes walk from village parking. The caves are best at low tide - check tide times. Don't venture deep into the caves - rockfall risk and sudden tides make it dangerous.
Waterfoot and Red Bay Castle
Waterfoot (also called Glenariffe) sits at the foot of Glenariff Glen, the "Queen of the Glens." It's a small village strung along the coast road with a long beach and the ruins of Red Bay Castle guarding the shoreline.
Red Bay Castle is a 16th-century tower house built by the Bisset family, later controlled by the McDonnells. It sits dramatically on a rocky promontory jutting into the sea - accessible via a short walk from the village. The castle is ruinous but atmospheric, and the location is spectacular for photography, especially when waves crash around the base at high tide.
The beach at Waterfoot is long, sandy, and quiet - popular with locals but rarely crowded. It's excellent for walking, especially toward Cushendall (about 3 miles of beach and shore path).
Waterfoot has limited services - a few shops, pubs, cafes - but it's the access point for Glenariff Forest Park, two miles inland up the glen.
Glenariff: Queen of the Glens
Glenariff village is tiny, but Glenariff Forest Park is the highlight of the glens - 2,900 acres of woodland, rivers, and waterfalls with walking trails ranging from easy to challenging.
Waterfall Walks
The most popular route is the Waterfall Trail - a 3-mile circular walk (2-3 hours) following the Glenariff River past multiple waterfalls. The path is well-maintained with steps, boardwalks, and viewing platforms, making it accessible for most fitness levels.
The waterfalls are spectacular after rain - the river tumbles through rocky gorges with mossy banks and fern-covered walls. Ess-na-Larach and Ess-na-Crub are the main falls, with viewing platforms providing safe vantage points.
The forest park also has longer trails climbing into the upper glen, a scenic drive to viewpoints, picnic areas, café, and visitor center. There's an admission fee per car. Allow 3-4 hours minimum for waterfall walk and leisurely exploration.
Tips: Wear proper walking boots - paths can be slippery. The café at the visitor center serves hot food and drinks. Best after rainfall when waterfalls are at full flow, but paths can be muddy. Early morning visits avoid crowds.
Ballycastle: Gateway Town
Ballycastle is larger than the other coastal settlements - a proper town rather than a village, with around 5,000 residents. It sits at the northeastern point of the Antrim coast where the shoreline turns west toward the Giant's Causeway.
Town Amenities and Character
Ballycastle has all services - supermarkets, shops, restaurants, pubs, hotels, banks, pharmacy. It's less picturesque than the smaller villages but more functional as a base for exploring both the Glens and the Causeway Coast.
The town has a long beach, a working harbor, and a seafront promenade. The diamond (town square) is the commercial heart with streets radiating outward. It's a real working town that happens to have tourism rather than a tourist town that happens to have residents.
Marconi Connection
Ballycastle has an important place in communications history - Guglielmo Marconi conducted wireless telegraphy experiments here in 1898, transmitting messages between Ballycastle and Rathlin Island. A plaque on the seafront commemorates this early chapter in radio development.
Rathlin Island Ferry
The ferry to Rathlin Island departs from Ballycastle harbor - a 25-minute crossing to Ireland's northernmost inhabited island. Rathlin is home to about 150 people, thousands of seabirds, dramatic cliffs, and Robert the Bruce's cave (where the Scottish king supposedly watched a spider and learned perseverance).
The ferry runs year-round with multiple sailings daily in summer, reduced service in winter. Day trips to Rathlin are popular - allow 4-6 hours to catch the ferry over, explore the island (bike rental available), visit the seabird center at the West Light, and return.
Pubs and Restaurants
The Central Bar on Ann Street is the traditional music pub - sessions most weekends, sometimes weeknights in summer. Morton's Fish & Chips (consistently rated among Ireland's best) operates from the harbor - get takeaway and eat on the seafront.
For sit-down dining, The Cellar Restaurant on The Diamond serves contemporary Irish food with local seafood featured. The Marine Hotel overlooks the beach and serves reliable pub food.
Traditional Architecture and Heritage
The Antrim coast villages share architectural characteristics shaped by climate, available materials, and Scottish influence. Traditional buildings are usually two stories, harled (rendered) and whitewashed, with slate or occasionally thatched roofs.
The whitewash served practical purposes - protecting the underlying stone from salt spray and reflecting precious light into rooms during long winter months. The style is simple, functional, beautiful in aggregate if not individually remarkable.
Many buildings date from the 19th century when the coast road opened these villages to development. Earlier buildings are rarer - the area was genuinely remote and poor before Victorian times.
The churches are typically 19th century - both Protestant (Church of Ireland and Presbyterian) and Catholic. The divisions of Irish history are visible in the landscape, though today's villages are generally relaxed about sectarian identity compared to some areas of Northern Ireland.
Local Crafts and Shopping
These villages aren't major shopping destinations, but several craft makers and independent shops are worth seeking out:
Steensons Jewellers (Glenarm) - High-end jewelry, famous for designing Game of Thrones props and the Dark Hedges jewelry collection. You can watch craftspeople at work.
Glens of Antrim Potatoes (Glenarm) - Award-winning potatoes sold at farm gate and local shops. Seriously - these are exceptional potatoes, varieties chosen for flavor.
Ballycastle farmers market (Saturday mornings in summer) - Local producers selling vegetables, baked goods, crafts, artisan foods.
Most villages have small shops selling Irish crafts, woolens, local foods - quality varies, but you'll find genuine local products alongside tourist tat. Ask locals for recommendations.
Seasonal Festivals and Events
The villages host festivals throughout the year, though summer brings the main events:
Heart of the Glens Festival (Cushendall, Easter week) - Traditional music, céilís, sessions, workshops. The village fills with musicians.
Dalriada Festival (Glenarm, late July) - Medieval reenactment, historical demonstrations, music, food. Castle and estate open to public.
Auld Lammas Fair (Ballycastle, last Monday-Tuesday in August) - Ireland's oldest fair, dating from 1606. Street trading, entertainment, crowds. Traditional foods include yellowman (honeycomb toffee) and dulse (dried seaweed).
Glens of Antrim Walking Festival (late spring) - Guided walks throughout the glens of varying difficulty. Good way to explore with local guides.
Photography Opportunities
The coastal villages offer exceptional photography, particularly:
Carnlough harbor - Evening light on limestone cliffs, arch bridge, fishing boats
Cushendun cottages and beach - Late afternoon light, whitewashed buildings, Scottish island views
Cushendun caves - Dramatic geology, best at low tide with side lighting
Red Bay Castle - Sunset behind the tower house, waves at high tide
Glenarm marina and castle - Castle towers above village, boats in harbor
Weather changes rapidly on this coast - dramatic skies are common. Rain, mist, and changing light create moody conditions perfect for atmospheric photography. Bring weather protection for camera gear.
Driving the Route: Distances and Timing
The coastal villages are linked by the A2 coast road - one of Ireland's most scenic drives. Distances between villages are short but allow extra time - the road is winding with frequent views demanding stops.
Glenarm to Carnlough: 7 miles, 15 minutes driving (allow 30 minutes with photo stops)
Carnlough to Cushendall: 8 miles, 15 minutes driving
Cushendall to Cushendun: 6 miles, 12 minutes driving
Cushendun to Ballycastle: 13 miles, 25 minutes driving (via Torr Head road - spectacular but narrow and winding, add 10 minutes)
You could drive the entire route in under two hours without stops, but that defeats the purpose. Allow a full day minimum to visit 3-4 villages properly with walks, meals, and exploring. Two days lets you hike Glenariff, visit Rathlin Island, and experience villages without rushing.
The route links naturally with the Causeway Coast (Giant's Causeway is 20 miles west of Ballycastle) or as a circuit from Belfast (Glenarm is 35 miles from Belfast via A8 and A2).
Accommodation in the Villages
Each village offers accommodation ranging from B&Bs to hotels. Ballycastle has the most options and services. Cushendall is the best compromise between village character and amenities. Glenarm, Carnlough, and Cushendun are quieter with limited services but more intimate village atmosphere.
Hotels: Londonderry Arms (Carnlough), Marine Hotel (Ballycastle), Thornlea Hotel (Cushendall)
Guesthouses & B&Bs: Numerous options in all villages - quality varies, check recent reviews. Book ahead for summer weekends and festival periods.
Self-catering: Cottages available for weekly rental, particularly around Cushendall and Cushendun. Good for families or longer stays.
See our comprehensive County Antrim accommodation guide for detailed listings, current rates, and booking information.
Final Thoughts: Antrim's Authentic Coast
These villages offer something increasingly rare - coastal communities that remain genuine working places while welcoming visitors sensitively. They haven't been overwhelmed by tourism, preserved in aspic, or transformed into souvenir shops and chain hotels.
You'll see fishing boats landing catches, children playing on beaches, locals gathering in pubs that have served the same families for generations. The villages exist for residents first, visitors second - and that authenticity is precisely what makes them special.
The landscapes are spectacular - where green glens meet blue sea, where Scottish islands appear close enough to touch on clear days, where waterfalls tumble through ancient forests. But the real treasure is experiencing these places as they actually are, not as staged tourist attractions.
Take your time here. Walk the harbors at different tides. Strike up conversations in pubs. Try the local potatoes. Watch the light change on limestone cliffs. Let the pace slow to match these villages - they reward attention, not rushing.
The Giant's Causeway is magnificent, but these villages are where you'll understand the Antrim coast and the people who've made their lives here for centuries. They're not hidden gems in the sense of being unknown - locals have always known their worth. They're hidden only if you drive past without stopping.
Don't drive past. Stop. Stay. Experience the Glens of Antrim properly.