Twenty years ago, Northern Ireland's cheese scene barely existed beyond industrial cheddar. Today, small-scale cheesemakers scattered across Ulster are producing award-winning cheeses that rival anything from France, Italy, or Switzerland. From raw-milk farmhouse cheddars aged in caves to soft bloomy-rind cheeses hand-turned daily, Ulster's artisan cheesemakers are part of Ireland's broader food renaissance - combining traditional techniques with local ingredients to create distinctive, place-specific products.
I've spent years visiting these cheesemakers, learning their stories, tasting their products at various stages of maturation, and understanding what makes Northern Irish cheese special. This guide introduces Ulster's finest artisan cheesemakers, explains where to visit and taste, and celebrates the farmers and craftspeople reviving traditional cheesemaking in this corner of Ireland.
Why Northern Ireland is Perfect for Cheesemaking
Ulster's climate and landscape create ideal conditions for producing exceptional cheese. The mild, wet climate produces lush pasture year-round - our grass-fed cows, sheep, and goats produce milk with distinct flavor reflecting the local terroir. The limestone-rich soil in areas like Fermanagh and Down contributes mineral complexity to the milk.
Unlike large-scale industrial production, artisan cheesemakers work with small herds, often making cheese daily from their own animals or sourcing milk from neighboring farms they know personally. The seasonality shows in the cheese - spring milk produces different flavors than autumn milk, reflecting what the animals are eating.
This connection to place and season - what the French call terroir - defines artisan cheese. You're not just tasting cheese; you're tasting a specific farm, a particular season, the skills of an individual cheesemaker.
Northern Ireland's Premier Artisan Cheesemakers
Young Buck - County Down
Alpine-Style Cheese in the Mournes
Location: Newtownards, County Down | Cheesemaker: Mike & Sarah Thomson | Style: Raw milk alpine-style hard cheese
The Story: Mike Thomson trained in Switzerland before returning to Northern Ireland to make Swiss-style cheese from local raw milk. Young Buck is a hard, aged cheese similar to Gruyère or Comté - nutty, complex, with crystalline texture from aging.
The Cheese: Made from unpasteurized cow's milk, pressed into large wheels, and aged for 8-18 months. As it matures, Young Buck develops deep umami flavors - roasted nuts, caramelized onions, beef broth. The texture is firm but creamy, with crunchy protein crystals that develop during aging.
Awards: Multiple awards at British and Irish cheese competitions. Young Buck has become one of Ireland's most celebrated artisan cheeses, appearing on cheese boards at top restaurants across the UK and Ireland.
Where to Buy: St. George's Market in Belfast, specialty shops throughout NI, direct from cheesemaker (check website for sales dates). Also exported to specialty cheese shops in GB and Ireland.
Dart Mountain Cheese - County Down
Farmhouse Cheesemaking at its Finest
Location: Rathfriland, County Down | Cheesemaker: Jonny Crickmore | Style: Washed-rind and bloomy-rind soft cheeses
The Story: Jonny Crickmore studied cheesemaking in France before establishing his farmhouse dairy in the Mourne foothills. He makes small batches of French-style soft and semi-soft cheeses using traditional techniques.
The Cheeses:
- Killeen: Washed-rind cheese similar to French Reblochon. Sticky orange rind from regular washing with brine, creamy interior, funky aroma but mild, sweet flavor.
- Ballinlare: Bloomy-rind cheese like Camembert, with white fuzzy exterior and soft, unctuous center when ripe.
- Dart Mountain Blue: Occasional production of blue-veined cheese with delicate flavor.
Farm Visits: Occasionally hosts open farm days where visitors can tour the dairy, meet the animals, and taste cheeses at different stages of maturation. Check their social media for dates.
Ballylisk Farmhouse Cheese - County Armagh
Orchard County's Cheese Heritage
Location: Armagh | Cheesemaker: Crawford Family | Style: Triple cream cow's milk cheese
The Cheese: Ballylisk is a triple-cream cheese - extra cream is added to the milk before cheesemaking, creating extraordinarily rich, buttery cheese. The young cheese is mild and spreadable. Aged versions develop more complex flavors while maintaining luxurious texture.
Character: Indulgent and accessible. This isn't challenging cheese - it's crowd-pleasing richness perfect for cheese boards, baking (excellent in tarts), or simply spreading on good bread.
Local Connection: Produced in County Armagh's orchard country. The cheese pairs beautifully with local Armagh apples - try it with crisp Bramley apples or Armagh cider for perfect regional pairing.
Abernethy Butter & Cheese - County Down
Traditional Methods, Modern Excellence
Location: Newtownards, County Down | Producer: Allison Abernethy | Products: Cultured butter and soft cheeses
The Products: While famous for their cultured butter (arguably Ireland's finest), Abernethy also produces small quantities of fresh and aged cheeses. The butter-making expertise translates to understanding cream and milk in ways that elevate their cheese.
The Butter: Made from cream cultured with live bacteria before churning, creating tangy, complex butter far removed from supermarket blocks. This is what butter tasted like before industrialization - deeply flavored, slightly sour, rich.
Availability: Limited production means Abernethy products sell out quickly. Find them at St. George's Market, specialty shops, and occasionally direct from the dairy.
Fivemiletown Creamery - County Tyrone
From Farmhouse to Award-Winning Creamery
Location: Fivemiletown, County Tyrone | Style: Variety of cow's, goat's, and sheep's milk cheeses
The Operation: Larger than other producers listed here, Fivemiletown bridges artisan and commercial production. They maintain traditional techniques while operating at a scale that supplies supermarkets and export markets.
Notable Cheeses:
- Ballyoak: Smoked cheddar with actual oak-smoking (not liquid smoke)
- Rathmore: Mature cheddar aged 12+ months
- Ballyblue: Irish blue cheese with gentle flavor
- Goat's cheese range: Fresh chèvre, aged goat cheddar, goat's milk blue
Accessibility: Fivemiletown cheeses are widely available in NI supermarkets and shops, making them accessible starting points for exploring local cheese.
Visiting Cheesemakers: Farm Tours & Tastings
Many Northern Irish cheesemakers are small operations without public visitor centers or regular tours. However, several offer occasional farm visits, often around special events or by appointment.
How to Arrange Visits
- Follow on social media: Most cheesemakers announce open farm days or special events through Facebook and Instagram.
- Email in advance: If you're particularly interested in cheesemaking and visiting the area, email cheesemakers to ask about visits. Many will accommodate serious interest if schedules permit.
- Attend food festivals: Cheesemakers regularly attend events like Hillsborough Food Festival, Taste of Ulster events, and farmers' markets where you can meet them and taste products.
- Book through tour operators: Some food tour companies include cheesemaker visits in their itineraries.
Where to Buy Northern Irish Artisan Cheese
St. George's Market - Belfast
Saturday market features multiple cheese vendors selling Northern Irish and Irish artisan cheeses. This is the best place to taste before buying - vendors offer samples and knowledgeable advice about cheeses, maturity levels, and pairing suggestions.
Top vendors: Look for Sawers Deli stall and dedicated cheese vendors who stock Young Buck, Dart Mountain, and other local producers.
Specialty Food Shops
- Sawers (Fountain Street, Belfast): Excellent selection of Irish and NI artisan cheeses, knowledgeable staff, proper storage and aging.
- Yellow Door Deli (Rosemary Street, Belfast): Quality local cheese selection, also stocks other artisan foods.
- Arcadia Deli (Lisburn Road, Belfast): Curated selection including harder-to-find producers.
- The Cheese Box (Omagh): Specialist cheese shop in County Tyrone stocking local and international cheeses.
Direct from Producers
Many cheesemakers sell direct through their websites or at farmers' markets. This supports producers directly and often gets you fresher product. Check individual cheesemaker websites for online sales and market schedules.
The Cheesemaking Process: What Makes Artisan Different
Milk Quality & Terroir
Industrial cheesemaking uses pooled milk from hundreds of farms, pasteurized and standardized to create consistent product year-round. Artisan cheesemakers use milk from single farms or small groups of farms, often unpasteurized (raw milk), preserving the complex bacteria and enzymes that contribute flavor.
Seasonal variation is embraced rather than eliminated - spring milk from cows eating fresh grass produces different cheese than winter milk from hay-fed animals. This variation is feature, not flaw.
Traditional Methods & Time
Artisan cheesemaking follows slower, more labor-intensive methods. Cultures and rennet are added to milk, which coagulates into curds and whey. Curds are cut, stirred, drained, and shaped - all by hand in small batches. The cheese is then aged for weeks, months, or years, turned regularly, washed or brushed, and monitored constantly.
Young Buck wheels, for example, are aged 8-18 months with regular turning and cave-aging. This time investment is why artisan cheese costs more - it's skilled labor, patience, and risk (not all wheels mature perfectly).
Scale & Personal Touch
Most Northern Irish artisan cheesemakers produce just a few hundred kilos per week - tiny compared to industrial operations producing tons daily. This small scale allows attention to detail impossible at larger operations. The cheesemaker knows every batch, tastes it regularly during aging, and makes adjustments based on how it's developing.
Pairing Northern Irish Cheese: Food & Drink
Cheese & Drinks
With Irish Whiskey: Aged cheeses like Young Buck pair brilliantly with Irish whiskey. The nutty, caramelized flavors in aged cheese complement whiskey's vanilla, honey, and oak notes. Try Young Buck with Bushmills 10-year single malt.
With Beer: Washed-rind cheeses like Dart Mountain's Killeen pair excellently with Irish stouts - the cheese's funky, meaty flavors stand up to Guinness or other dark beers.
With Cider: Northern Ireland's craft ciders (particularly from County Armagh) pair beautifully with rich, creamy cheeses like Ballylisk. The cider's acidity cuts through fat while apple sweetness complements the cheese.
With Wine: White wines generally pair better with cheese than reds. Try Loire Valley whites (Sancerre, Vouvray) with goat cheeses, or aged whites (white Burgundy) with Young Buck.
Building a Northern Irish Cheese Board
For a cheese board showcasing Ulster's diversity:
- Aged Hard: Young Buck - nutty, complex, conversation-starter
- Soft & Creamy: Ballylisk triple cream - rich, approachable
- Washed Rind: Dart Mountain Killeen - funky, interesting
- Blue: Fivemiletown Ballyblue - gentle introduction to blue cheese
- Fresh: Local goat's cheese or Abernethy soft cheese
Accompaniments: Armagh apples, local oat cakes, Ditty's soda bread, Irish honey, homemade chutney, toasted hazelnuts.
The Broader Irish Cheese Scene
Northern Irish cheesemakers are part of a broader Irish artisan cheese movement. The Republic of Ireland has more established and numerous cheesemakers, many worth seeking out if you're exploring the island:
- Cashel Blue (Tipperary): Ireland's most famous farmhouse blue cheese
- Gubbeen (West Cork): Washed-rind cheese, one of Ireland's artisan pioneers
- Durrus (West Cork): Semi-soft washed-rind, complex and earthy
- Ardrahan (West Cork): Washed-rind cheese with cult following
- Coolea (West Cork): Gouda-style aged cheese
West Cork, in particular, has an extraordinary concentration of cheesemakers - a cheese trail through Cork could fill several days of tasting and farm visits.
Supporting Artisan Cheesemakers
Buying artisan cheese costs more than supermarket blocks, but you're paying for:
- Small-scale production with high labor costs
- Quality milk from well-treated animals on good pasture
- Months or years of aging and care
- Skilled cheesemakers developing unique products
- Support for rural economies and farming communities
When you buy Young Buck or Dart Mountain cheese, you're directly supporting Northern Irish farmers, preserving traditional skills, and encouraging food diversity. These are working farms and small businesses, not corporate operations - your purchases matter.
Cheesemaking Courses & Workshops
Several organizations offer cheesemaking courses for home cheesemakers or those curious about the process:
- Dart Mountain Cheese: Occasionally offers cheesemaking workshops at the farm
- Food NI: Runs artisan food courses including cheesemaking
- Local agricultural colleges: CAFRE (College of Agriculture, Food and Rural Enterprise) offers dairy and cheesemaking training
For serious aspiring cheesemakers, courses in GB or the Republic of Ireland provide more comprehensive training.
The Future of Northern Irish Cheese
Ulster's artisan cheese scene is still young compared to France or Switzerland, but it's growing rapidly. New cheesemakers emerge regularly, often starting small while maintaining other jobs, gradually building production as demand grows.
The challenges are real - high setup costs, strict food safety regulations, difficulty finding affordable farmland, and competition from cheaper imports. But consumer interest in local, artisan, and traceable food continues growing. Restaurants increasingly feature local cheese, tourists seek authentic food experiences, and local pride in Ulster products drives demand.
If current trends continue, Northern Ireland in ten years will have double the number of artisan cheesemakers, greater variety of styles, and established cheese tourism routes similar to what exists in Cork or continental Europe.
Final Thoughts
Northern Ireland's artisan cheese scene represents something larger than food - it's cultural revival, rural economic development, and reconnection to land and traditional skills. These cheesemakers chose difficult, labor-intensive work because they value quality, craft, and creating something distinctive.
When you visit Ulster, seek out these cheeses. Buy them at markets, order them at restaurants, visit farms if you can. You'll taste exceptional products, support worthy businesses, and experience Northern Ireland's food culture at its most authentic and exciting.
For more on Northern Ireland food and drink and travel guides, explore our other resources.