County Down's coastline is Northern Ireland's most diverse coastal journey - a spectacular drive from the foot of the Mourne Mountains through ancient fishing villages, around the wildlife-rich Strangford Lough, and along the quiet beaches of the Ards Peninsula. I've driven, cycled, and hiked this route countless times, and it never fails to deliver that perfect combination of dramatic mountain scenery, intimate coastal villages, pristine beaches, and rich history.
What makes the County Down coast special is variety. In a single day, you can hike in the shadow of Northern Ireland's highest peaks, walk windswept sand dunes at Murlough National Nature Reserve, explore a Norman castle, watch seals hauled out on rocks in Strangford Lough, cross by ferry between picturesque harbor villages, and end with fresh seafood overlooking the water. This isn't just scenic driving - it's an immersive journey through landscapes that shaped Irish history and continue to captivate visitors.
This comprehensive guide covers the full County Down coastal route from Newcastle to Strangford and around the Ards Peninsula, with detailed information on hiking opportunities, best beaches, wildlife watching, St. Patrick's heritage sites, photography locations, and where to find the finest seafood on the Irish coast.
Route Overview: Planning Your Coastal Journey
Full Route: 85-95 miles
The County Down coastal route isn't a single defined road like the Causeway Coastal Route, but rather a spectacular journey combining several scenic roads around County Down's coastline. The classic route runs from Newcastle south and east to Kilkeel, then north through Portaferry, around Strangford Lough, along the Ards Peninsula to Portavogie and Donaghadee, and back inland through Downpatrick.
Recommended Route Direction
I recommend driving clockwise from Newcastle: Newcastle → Murlough → Dundrum → Ardglass → Strangford → Portaferry (ferry crossing) → Kearney → Portavogie → Greyabbey → Newtownards, with a detour to Downpatrick for St. Patrick sites.
Why clockwise? You'll have better views of Strangford Lough on your left as you drive down the Ards Peninsula, photography light favors afternoon on the eastern Ards coast, and you can time the Portaferry ferry crossing for midday. However, the route works equally well counter-clockwise - there's no wrong direction here.
Time Required
Absolute minimum (driving only): 3-4 hours for the full circuit with brief photo stops.
Recommended full day: 8-10 hours including walks, castle visits, lunch stops, and proper exploration time.
Ideal experience: 2-3 days, allowing overnight stays and time for hiking, beach walks, boat trips, and deeper exploration of villages and heritage sites.
Newcastle and the Mourne Mountains Gateway
Your coastal journey begins where the Mountains of Mourne sweep down to the sea. Newcastle sits at the foot of Slieve Donard, creating one of Ireland's most dramatic townscape settings - a Victorian seaside resort backed by Northern Ireland's highest mountain range.
Newcastle offers excellent facilities: quality accommodation across all budgets, outdoor shops for hiking gear, cafes and restaurants, and most importantly, direct access to both mountains and coast. The town's four-mile beach stretches from the Shimna River mouth south toward the Mournes, with the granite peaks providing constant backdrop.
Don't Miss in Newcastle
- Beach promenade walk - Classic seaside stroll with mountain views
- Donard Park - Starting point for Mourne Mountains hikes
- Tropicana - Nostalgic amusement center perfect for families
- Maud's Ice Cream - Legendary ice cream parlor, mandatory stop after mountain hikes
If you have time for mountain hiking, Newcastle provides the classic access to Slieve Donard via Glen River Trail. Read our comprehensive Mourne Mountains hiking guide for detailed route information and safety tips.
Murlough National Nature Reserve: Sand Dunes and Ancient Forests
Just south of Newcastle, Murlough National Nature Reserve is one of Ireland's finest dune systems - 6,000 years of windblown sand creating a landscape of rolling dunes, heath, and ancient woodland, all with spectacular views across Dundrum Bay to the Mournes.
This National Trust property protects rare habitats and species while offering outstanding walking. The beach here is magnificent - wide, sandy, often deserted even in summer, backed by dunes and fronted by views to the mountains. On clear days, you can see the full sweep of the Mourne range rising from the sea.
Walking at Murlough
Several waymarked trails wind through the dunes and woodland:
- Beach Walk (any distance): Park and walk as far as you like on pristine sand
- Dune Trail (2km, 45 minutes): Loop through the dune system with interpretation boards
- Woodland Trail (3km, 1 hour): Through ancient hazel and oak woods, excellent for birdwatching
Wildlife watching here is excellent. Look for common lizards basking on sunny paths, butterflies in summer (Murlough supports rare species), seabirds offshore, and if you're lucky, Irish hares in the dunes. In autumn, the heath blooms purple with heather.
Dundrum Village and Castle
The village of Dundrum sits at the head of Dundrum Bay, dominated by the impressive Norman castle ruins perched on a rocky outcrop. This small village punches above its weight for charm and facilities.
Dundrum Castle
Built in the 12th century by Anglo-Norman knight John de Courcy, Dundrum Castle commands spectacular views across the bay and surrounding countryside. The circular keep is remarkably well-preserved, and you can climb to the top for panoramic vistas - on clear days you'll see across to the Isle of Man.
The castle sits on a rocky hill within walking distance of the village center. Climb the spiral stairs to the battlements and understand why de Courcy chose this location - it's naturally defensible with sight lines in all directions. Small entry fee, managed by Northern Ireland Environment Agency.
Dundrum Village
The village itself is a delightful stop. Buck's Head Inn offers quality pub food in traditional setting, while The Carriage House provides excellent coffee and baked goods. The village has that lived-in feel many tourist spots lack - this is a real community that happens to be beautiful, not a heritage attraction.
Strangford Lough: Wildlife Wonderland
Strangford Lough is the UK's largest inlet and one of Europe's most important marine nature reserves. This massive sea lough covers 150 square kilometers, with powerful tidal currents creating nutrient-rich waters that support extraordinary marine life. The shores are dotted with castle towers, islands, and historic sites, while the waters host seals, porpoises, and countless seabirds.
The Narrows and Tidal Race
At the lough's mouth, fierce tidal currents force millions of gallons of seawater through a narrow gap between Portaferry and Strangford village. These are some of the strongest tidal streams in Europe - up to 8 knots at peak flow. The turbulent water creates ideal conditions for marine life and attracts seals that hunt in the churning currents.
Watch the tidal race from either shore - it's mesmerizing seeing water move with such force. Kayakers and experienced sailors use these currents, but they demand serious respect and local knowledge.
Wildlife Watching
Strangford Lough is Northern Ireland's best location for accessible wildlife watching:
- Seals: Common and grey seals haul out on rocks around the lough. Best viewing at low tide from Ballyquintin Point, Mount Stewart grounds, and Portaferry marina
- Birdlife: Internationally important for wintering wildfowl and waders. Autumn and winter bring huge flocks of brent geese from Arctic Canada, along with wigeon, teal, and thousands of wading birds
- Marine Life: Porpoises occasionally spotted in the narrows, and the lough supports horse mussels, brittlestars, and unique marine communities
Exploris Aquarium (Portaferry)
Exploris Aquarium in Portaferry showcases Strangford Lough's marine life through excellent exhibits. The touch pools let you interact with starfish and crabs, while larger tanks display local fish species and the aquarium's seal rescue program rehabilitates injured seals before release. Perfect for families or anyone interested in marine biology. Entry fee around £10 for adults.
Boat Trips
Several operators offer boat trips on Strangford Lough from Portaferry and other launch points. These trips provide close encounters with seals, seabirds, and the lough's islands and historic sites. Trip lengths vary from one-hour wildlife tours to longer island explorations. Check operators' websites for schedules - many run seasonally (Easter to September).
The Portaferry to Strangford Ferry
The ferry crossing between Portaferry and Strangford village is one of Ireland's most scenic and practical ferry journeys. This continuous car ferry takes just 8 minutes to cross the narrows, saving a 50-mile drive around the lough's head. But beyond practicality, it's a highlight - crossing those churning tidal waters with villages on either shore, castles visible, and seals often in the water nearby.
The ferry runs year-round, departing every 30 minutes during the day (half-hourly), more frequently in peak season. Foot passengers and cyclists welcome. The cost is modest (around £6-8 per car, small fee for foot passengers), and you can pay by card or cash. On busy summer days, there might be a short wait, but rarely more than one ferry cycle.
Ards Peninsula Highlights
The Ards Peninsula stretches 30 miles along the eastern shore of Strangford Lough and the Irish Sea coast. This quieter part of County Down rewards exploration with pristine beaches, historic abbeys, traditional fishing harbors, and landscapes that feel wonderfully remote despite being close to Belfast.
Kearney and Knockinelder
At the southern tip of the peninsula, tiny Kearney village is a perfectly preserved traditional Irish coastal settlement - whitewashed cottages, stone walls, and views to the Mourne Mountains across the water. The National Trust manages Kearney, and it feels frozen in time while being carefully maintained.
From Kearney, coastal paths lead to Knockinelder beach and further along rocky shores. This is magical walking - quiet, beautiful, with constant sea views. The path around Ballyquintin Point offers seal watching at low tide.
Portavogie Fishing Harbor
Portavogie is Northern Ireland's second-largest fishing port and a working harbor unchanged by tourism. The fleet lands prawns, nephrops (langoustines), and whitefish - this is authentic fishing village atmosphere with boats, nets, and the smell of the sea.
Walk the harbor watching boats unload their catch, visit during the early morning fish market, or simply absorb the working harbor atmosphere. Several shops sell fresh fish and seafood direct from the boats - if you're self-catering, this is where to stock up.
Greyabbey Village and Abbey Ruins
One of Ireland's best-preserved Cistercian abbey ruins sits in the beautiful village of Greyabbey. Founded in 1193, the abbey church remains remarkably intact with lancet windows, detailed stone carving, and peaceful cloistered grounds perfect for contemplation.
The village itself is charming - quality cafes, antique shops, and Greyabbey House gardens (seasonal opening). This is a perfect mid-afternoon stop for coffee and a wander.
Mount Stewart House and Gardens
One of Northern Ireland's grandest National Trust properties, Mount Stewart combines 18th-century mansion, world-class gardens, and woodland walks with Strangford Lough access. The gardens are the real star - designed in the 1920s by Edith, Lady Londonderry, featuring Mediterranean and exotic plants that thrive in the mild microclimate.
Allow 2-3 hours to tour the house and explore the gardens properly. The lakeside and woodland walks extend to the lough shore - excellent for wildlife watching. Entry fee applies (National Trust members free). The café and shop are excellent quality.
St. Patrick's Heritage: Downpatrick and Saul
County Down holds Ireland's strongest connections to St. Patrick, the country's patron saint. Tradition says Patrick landed at the mouth of the Slaney River (near modern Saul) in 432 AD, converted the local chieftain, and established his first church on land given by that chieftain. Patrick died in Saul and was buried in Downpatrick.
Downpatrick
The county town of Downpatrick is steeped in St. Patrick history. Down Cathedral sits on the hilltop site of earlier monasteries, with a boulder in the graveyard marking St. Patrick's traditional burial place (though historical reality is more complex). The cathedral itself dates to various periods, with the current building mainly from the early 1800s rebuilding on medieval foundations.
The Saint Patrick Centre in Downpatrick provides excellent interactive exhibits explaining Patrick's life, the spread of Christianity in Ireland, and separating historical fact from later legend. It's the best place to understand Patrick beyond the simplified parade-day version. Small entry fee.
Saul and Slieve Patrick
Just outside Downpatrick, the tiny village of Saul marks where Patrick supposedly first preached. A 19th-century Church of Ireland church and round tower memorial commemorate the site of Patrick's first Irish church.
Behind the church, a path climbs Slieve Patrick hill to a massive statue of St. Patrick overlooking the countryside. The 45-minute walk up rewards with panoramic views across County Down - Strangford Lough, the Mournes, and the landscape Patrick would have known. It's a peaceful spot for reflection, regardless of your religious perspective.
Coastal Walks and Hiking Opportunities
Beyond the mountains, County Down's coast offers excellent walking at all levels:
Murlough Beach and Dunes
As mentioned earlier, Murlough offers easy walking on beach and waymarked dune trails. Suitable for all fitness levels, stunning mountain views, and excellent for families.
Lecale Way (Section)
This 61km waymarked trail circles the Lecale Peninsula (between Downpatrick and Ardglass). You don't need to walk the whole route - any section provides excellent coastal and countryside walking. The coastal sections from Ardglass to Killough and around St. John's Point are particularly fine.
Ards Peninsula Coastal Paths
Informal coastal paths run along much of the peninsula, particularly around Kearney and the southern tip. These aren't always waymarked but paths are generally clear. Bring OS map, wear proper footwear, and be prepared for rough ground.
Scrabo Tower and Countryside
Just outside Newtownards, Scrabo Tower sits on a volcanic plug with spectacular views. The country park around the tower offers several waymarked trails through woods and heathland. The tower itself can be climbed (free, but check opening times). Short, accessible walks with big views.
Best Beaches on the County Down Coast
County Down beaches range from long sandy strands to intimate rocky coves:
Murlough Beach
Already mentioned but worth repeating - this is County Down's finest beach. Wide golden sand, backed by dunes and mountains, often quiet. Perfect for swimming on calm days (no lifeguards - swim at own risk).
Tyrella Beach
Between Newcastle and Dundrum, Tyrella is a hidden gem - two miles of fine sand, backed by dunes, with the Mournes as backdrop. Popular with locals, less known to tourists. Parking available, basic facilities, dog-friendly. Swimming can be dangerous due to currents - be cautious.
Ballyholme Beach (Bangor)
If you're approaching from Belfast/North Down, Ballyholme in Bangor is an excellent sandy beach with promenade, facilities, cafes nearby, and generally safe swimming. More developed than southern County Down beaches but convenient and family-friendly.
Minerstown and Tyrella
The stretch of coast south of Newcastle toward Minerstown offers quiet beaches accessed by small roads. These feel remote and peaceful - perfect for beach walks and escaping crowds. Limited facilities mean bringing your own supplies.
Where to Eat: Seafood and Local Specialties
County Down's coastal location and working fishing harbors deliver outstanding seafood. Local restaurants and pubs showcase fresh catch, often landed within miles of where you're eating.
Newcastle
- Vanilla - Excellent restaurant and bakery, great breakfast and lunch
- Maggie May's - Traditional fish and chips, local institution
- The Anchor Bar - Quality pub food in cozy setting
Strangford
- The Cuan - Outstanding seafood restaurant and pub, fresh local catch
- The Lobster Pot - Casual dining with harbor views, excellent fish and chips
Portaferry
- The Portaferry Hotel - Restaurant overlooking the narrows, excellent seafood
- Fiddler's Green - Lively pub with good food and music
Ardglass
- Curran's Bar - Traditional harbor pub, no-frills fresh seafood
- Aldo's Ristorante - Fine dining in converted church, creative cooking
Greyabbey and Kircubbin
- The Wildflower (Greyabbey) - Excellent café, baked goods, light lunches
- Paul Arthurs (Kircubbin) - Michelin-recommended fine dining, tasting menus
Most coastal pubs and restaurants feature locally landed prawns, mussels from Strangford Lough, and fresh fish. Always ask about the daily catch - specials often showcase whatever came in that morning.
Photography Opportunities
County Down's coast delivers photography from every angle:
Sunrise Locations
- Murlough Beach - Sunrise over the Irish Sea with mountains behind
- Portaferry Harbor - Dawn light on boats and castle
- Scrabo Tower - Elevated views across Strangford Lough at first light
Sunset Locations
- Newcastle Promenade - Sunset behind the Mournes
- Strangford Village - Evening light across the narrows to Portaferry
- Kearney - Sunset views across to the Mournes
Iconic Compositions
- Dundrum Castle - Medieval ruins with bay views
- Portaferry Ferry - Crossing the narrows with villages either side
- Kearney Village - Whitewashed cottages and coastal views
- Greyabbey Ruins - Gothic arches and medieval stonework
- Slieve Patrick Statue - Dramatic statue with sweeping views
Weather is crucial for coastal photography. Dramatic clouds and changeable conditions often create more interesting light than clear blue skies. The golden hour (first and last hour of sunlight) provides the warmest, most directional light. For seascapes, check tide times - low tide exposes foreground rocks and pools, while high tide brings water close to shore features.
Practical Information and Tips
Best Time to Visit
Summer (June-August): Warmest weather, longest days, all facilities operating. Best for beach activities and water sports. Can be busy on weekends and during school holidays.
Autumn (September-November): Beautiful light, fewer crowds, autumn colors in woodland areas. Wildlife watching excellent as migratory birds arrive. Weather more variable but often stable high-pressure periods.
Winter (December-February): Quiet and peaceful, dramatic storms create spectacular seascapes. Short days limit driving time. Some attractions have reduced hours. Excellent for birdwatching as winter migrants arrive.
Spring (March-May): Days lengthening, temperatures rising, wildflowers beginning. Seal pupping season February-March brings viewing opportunities. Weather variable but improving.
Driving Considerations
The County Down coastal route uses a mix of main roads (A2) and smaller country lanes. The roads are generally good quality but expect:
- Narrow lanes on some peninsula routes - take care on bends
- Tractors and slow farm vehicles on country roads
- Limited parking at some small beaches and viewpoints
- Sheep occasionally on unfenced upland roads
Fuel stations are available in Newcastle, Downpatrick, Newtownards, and larger villages. Fill up before exploring remote peninsula areas as stations can be sparse.
Cycling the Route
The County Down coast makes an excellent cycling route for experienced cyclists. Traffic is generally light on peninsula roads, scenery is constantly rewarding, and the terrain varies from flat coastal sections to challenging hills around Downpatrick and approaching the mountains.
Allow 2-3 days for a cycling trip to properly explore rather than just cover distance. Several operators offer self-guided cycling packages with accommodation booking and luggage transfer.
Accommodation Recommendations
County Down offers excellent accommodation across all budgets:
Newcastle: Best choice for mountain access and lively town atmosphere. Wide range of hotels, guesthouses, B&Bs, and self-catering. Book ahead for summer weekends.
Strangford/Portaferry: Quieter, more intimate options. Perfect for wildlife watching and accessing the Ards Peninsula. Limited options mean booking ahead is essential.
Downpatrick: Good central base for exploring the full coast. More budget-friendly than coastal villages with decent selection of accommodation.
Portavogie/Greyabbey: Smaller selection but authentic fishing village and country town atmosphere. Self-catering cottages more common than hotels.
Browse our comprehensive County Down accommodation guide for detailed listings, reviews, and booking information across all areas.
Final Thoughts: The Soul of County Down
The County Down coast doesn't shout for attention like some of Ireland's better-marketed regions, and that's precisely its appeal. This is landscape for those who look deeper - who take time to walk quiet beaches, explore small villages, watch wildlife in the lough, and absorb the history layered into every medieval ruin and harbors that have landed fish for centuries.
What I love about guiding people along this coast is watching them slow down. In our first hour, they're checking phones and thinking about the next stop. By afternoon, they're sitting on harbor walls watching boats, taking time over coffee in village cafes, and discovering that the unmarked path to that small beach was the day's highlight.
The Mournes provide the dramatic backdrop that initially attracts visitors, but it's Strangford Lough's seals, Kearney's timeless cottages, the ferry crossing between villages, fresh seafood in harbors, and the feeling of discovering somewhere special that most tourists miss - that's what makes people return.
County Down's coast rewards those who take their time. It's not about racing between attractions or ticking boxes on a must-see list. It's about immersing yourself in landscape, history, wildlife, and local life. Pack your hiking boots and camera, allow more time than you think you need, stay flexible with plans, and let the coast reveal itself at its own pace.
From Newcastle's mountain-backed beaches to the Ards Peninsula's quiet harbors, from St. Patrick's heritage sites to Strangford Lough's wildlife wonders, the County Down coast offers Northern Ireland at its finest - beautiful, authentic, and deeply rewarding for those who explore with open eyes and no rushing.
The mountains sweep down to the sea. The lough teems with life. The villages welcome visitors with warmth. Your County Down coastal adventure awaits.