Fermanagh is Ireland's lake district - a place where water defines everything. With Upper and Lower Lough Erne stretching across the county, over 150 islands scattered like stepping stones, underground rivers carving through limestone caves, and countless waterways connecting it all, Fermanagh offers adventures you won't find anywhere else in Northern Ireland.
I've spent years exploring these lakelands by kayak, bicycle, and on foot. From paddling into remote island coves at sunset to descending into the spectacular Marble Arch Caves, from cycling the Kingfisher Trail to climbing the Stairway to Heaven boardwalk - Fermanagh consistently surprises and delights. This is adventure territory disguised as gentle countryside.
This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to plan your Fermanagh lakeland adventure, whether you're seeking water-based activities, island exploration, underground wonders, or simply the perfect peaceful escape.
Understanding Fermanagh's Unique Geography
Fermanagh is shaped by water in ways that make it geographically unique in Ireland. The county sits on limestone bedrock, creating both the surface waterways and the underground cave systems that make it so special.
Upper Lough Erne (southeast) is actually the more intimate lake despite its name. It's a maze of narrow channels, reed-fringed islands, and sheltered bays - absolute paradise for kayakers and wildlife enthusiasts. The water weaves between dozens of small islands, creating constantly changing vistas. This is where you'll find Crom Estate's ancient woodlands and some of the best otter-watching in Ireland.
Lower Lough Erne (northwest) is broader, deeper, and more open. This is cruising territory - better suited for motorboats, sailing, and the major island attractions like Devenish Island and White Island. The lake stretches nearly 18 miles from Enniskillen to Belleek, opening out into dramatic wide expanses near the western end.
The town of Enniskillen sits on an island between the two loughs, making it the natural base for exploring the entire system. From there, the waterways extend roughly 50 miles end-to-end, offering everything from sheltered paddling to challenging open-water crossings.
Water Sports and Activities on Lough Erne
The lakelands are Northern Ireland's premier water sports destination. Here's what you can do on these magnificent waterways:
Kayaking and Canoeing
Kayaking remains my favorite way to explore Lough Erne. The water-level perspective, the silence broken only by paddle strokes, the ability to slip into narrow channels and hidden coves - there's nothing quite like it.
Upper Lough Erne around Crom Estate offers the best sheltered paddling. The maze of islands and channels means you can paddle for hours without covering the same water twice. Wildlife sightings here are exceptional - I've encountered otters more times than I can count, always magical.
Lower Lough Erne requires more experience due to open water crossings, but rewards paddlers with access to the historic islands. The crossing to Devenish Island from various mainland points offers that perfect mix of challenge and achievement.
Key rental operators:
- Share Discovery Village (Lisnaskea) - Excellent equipment, courses from beginner to advanced, guided trips available
- Erne Tours (Enniskillen) - Guided kayak trips to Devenish Island and other locations
- Castle Archdale Country Park - Boat and kayak hire, good for beginners
Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP)
SUP has exploded in popularity on Lough Erne, and for good reason. The sheltered bays of Upper Lough Erne provide ideal learning conditions, while more experienced paddlers can venture onto Lower Lough Erne's open water.
Several operators now offer SUP hire and lessons. The stable modern boards make it surprisingly easy to learn - most people are up and paddling within 30 minutes. For a unique perspective, try SUP yoga sessions offered during summer months.
Boat Tours and Cruises
If you prefer to let someone else do the navigating, several excellent boat tour operators run trips across the loughs:
- Erne Water Taxi - Customizable trips, perfect if you want to visit specific islands
- Lough Erne Cruises - Scheduled cruises from Enniskillen with historical commentary
- Kestrel Cruiser - Luxury boat tours with food options
Tours typically range from 90-minute tasters to full-day excursions. The commentary adds tremendous value - local knowledge about history, wildlife, and folklore that you'd miss exploring independently.
Fishing
Lough Erne is renowned as one of Europe's finest coarse fishing destinations. Pike, perch, roach, bream, and eels populate these waters, with pike over 40lbs caught regularly. Both loughs offer excellent fishing, though Upper Lough Erne's sheltered bays often produce better results.
Fishing permits are required and available from local tackle shops in Enniskillen and Lisnaskea. Several operators offer guided fishing trips with equipment provided.
Sailing and Motorboat Cruising
Lower Lough Erne's open water suits sailing beautifully. Several sailing clubs operate from the shores, and boat hire is available from multiple marinas. Manor House Marine near Killadeas offers everything from day boats to multi-day cruiser hire - no license required for smaller vessels.
For longer adventures, consider hiring a cruiser for a few days. Explore at your own pace, moor at different islands each night, and experience Lough Erne the way Victorian tourists did (but with significantly better facilities).
Island Hopping: Exploring Lough Erne's Historic Islands
The islands of Lough Erne are what make this place truly special. I've written a detailed guide specifically about island hopping on Lough Erne, but here are the must-visit islands:
Devenish Island
The crown jewel of Lough Erne's islands, Devenish hosts Ireland's finest collection of early monastic architecture. The 82-foot round tower with its cap intact, St. Molaise's Church, Teampull Mor, and the intricately carved high cross create an atmospheric journey into Ireland's ancient Christian heritage.
Accessible by ferry from Trory Point (April-September) or by kayak for those comfortable with open water crossings. Allow 1.5-2 hours minimum to properly explore. Entry is free once you reach the island.
White Island
Home to seven mysterious carved stone figures that blend Christian and pagan imagery in ways that still baffle archaeologists. The summer ferry from Castle Archdale Marina (June-August) makes access easy. The enigmatic figures, displayed in the ruined church, are worth the trip alone.
Boa Island
Unique among Lough Erne's islands because bridges connect it to the mainland at both ends, making it accessible by car. Don't miss Caldragh Cemetery's two-faced Janus figure - possibly Ireland's oldest stone carving. The island also offers excellent walking trails and quiet beaches perfect for wild swimming.
Inishmacsaint
A peaceful island with atmospheric monastic ruins. Less visited than Devenish but equally special for those seeking solitude. Accessible by boat or kayak - there's a small jetty on the eastern shore. Pack a lunch and spend time soaking up the tranquility.
Marble Arch Caves UNESCO Global Geopark
If you only do one non-water activity in Fermanagh, make it the Marble Arch Caves. This is one of Europe's finest showcaves - an underground wonderland of rivers, waterfalls, chambers, and spectacular formations.
The 75-minute guided tour begins with an underground boat journey along a subterranean river - immediately setting the tone for something special. You then walk through chambers filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and flowstone formations built over millions of years.
The scale is breathtaking. The formations are delicate and beautiful. The guides are knowledgeable and passionate. This is world-class caving made accessible to anyone with reasonable mobility.
Practical Information
- Booking essential - Tours fill up quickly, especially in summer. Book online weeks ahead for peak season visits
- Temperature - Constant 10°C underground. Bring warm layers even on hot days
- Footwear - Good walking shoes with grip. The paths can be wet and slippery
- Duration - 75-minute tour plus time in visitor center. Allow 2 hours total
- Accessibility - Not suitable for wheelchairs. Moderate fitness required - there are steps and uneven surfaces
- Weather dependent - Tours can be cancelled due to flooding after heavy rain. Check before traveling
The surrounding Marble Arch Caves UNESCO Global Geopark also offers above-ground walking trails, including access points for the Cuilcagh Boardwalk.
Cuilcagh Boardwalk: The Stairway to Heaven
One of Northern Ireland's most popular walks, the Cuilcagh Boardwalk trail has become famous as the "Stairway to Heaven" thanks to its dramatic wooden boardwalk climbing toward the summit of Cuilcagh Mountain.
The Walk: A 7.5km return trail starting from Marble Arch Caves car park (free parking but often full - arrive early). The route crosses boggy terrain on well-constructed boardwalk before climbing via boardwalk steps to the summit plateau at 665m.
Duration: 3-5 hours return depending on pace and conditions.
Difficulty: Moderate. The boardwalk makes the going easier than natural bog, but it's still a sustained uphill walk requiring good fitness.
Views: Spectacular on clear days. From the summit, you can see across five counties, both loughs of Fermanagh, and mountains stretching to the horizons.
Weather warning: The summit can be significantly colder and windier than the car park. Cloud can roll in quickly, reducing visibility to meters. Check forecasts and pack accordingly.
Cycling the Kingfisher Trail
The Kingfisher Trail is a 480km waymarked cycling route that loops through Fermanagh and neighboring counties in both Northern Ireland and the Republic. While completing the full route takes a week or more, Fermanagh offers some of its finest sections.
Best Day Rides
Enniskillen to Belleek Loop (50km): Follows the northern shore of Lower Lough Erne through Castle Caldwell Forest and past Boa Island. Quiet roads, great lakeside views, reasonable hills. Allow 3-4 hours.
Upper Lough Erne Circuit (30km): More sheltered route through the intricate waterways of Upper Lough Erne. Flatter than the Lower Lough route, suitable for families with older children.
Castle Archdale to Kesh (25km one-way): Beautiful route past White Island ferry, through Castle Archdale Country Park, and along Lower Lough Erne's shore.
Bike Hire
Several shops in Enniskillen offer bike hire including electric bikes for tackling the hills with less effort. Erne Tours and Share Discovery Village both hire bikes and can provide route information.
Walking and Hiking Beyond Cuilcagh
While Cuilcagh dominates Fermanagh's hiking scene, other excellent walks deserve attention:
Lough Navar Forest
A drive to the scenic viewpoint alone justifies visiting (stunning panoramas over Lower Lough Erne), but the forest offers several waymarked walking trails through mature woodland. The 6km blue trail provides the best views with moderate effort.
Crom Estate Trails
National Trust property on Upper Lough Erne with several trails through ancient woodland and along the lakeshore. Old stone walls, ruined castles, huge oak trees, and abundant wildlife. Small entry fee for non-National Trust members. The estate also offers limited wild camping spots - book ahead.
Castle Archdale Country Park
Network of shorter trails (2-5km) around the park. Perfect for families or easy afternoon strolls. The lakeside paths offer lovely water views and good birdwatching. Free entry but parking fee applies.
Enniskillen: Your Lakeland Base
The market town of Enniskillen occupies a strategic island position between Upper and Lower Lough Erne, making it the perfect base for exploring the lakelands. The town offers excellent facilities and is charming in its own right.
What to See in Enniskillen
- Enniskillen Castle - Twin museums covering local history and the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers. The castle itself dates to the 15th century.
- Forthill Park - Climb to the Cole Monument for superb 360-degree views over both loughs and the surrounding countryside.
- The Buttermarket - Restored Victorian market building now housing craft shops, galleries, and cafes.
- Enniskillen Cathedral - Beautiful building with interesting historical artifacts.
- Lakeside walks - Paved paths along the loughshore perfect for evening strolls.
Where to Eat in Enniskillen
Enniskillen's food scene is excellent. Don't miss:
- Blake's of the Hollow - Victorian pub virtually unchanged since 1887. Perfect pint, authentic atmosphere, often live music.
- Dollakis - Fine dining showcasing local ingredients including Lough Erne fish. Book ahead.
- The Jolly Sandwich Bar - Don't be fooled by the name - serves excellent fresh food in generous portions.
- The Horseshoe & Saddlers - Traditional pub food and regular music sessions.
- Cafe Merlot - Mediterranean-influenced bistro, great lunch spot.
Where to Stay in Fermanagh
Accommodation options range from luxury castle hotels to cozy lakeside B&Bs and self-catering cottages. Location matters - choose based on your main activities.
Castle Hotels and Luxury
Lough Erne Resort - Five-star resort between the loughs with championship golf course, spa, and fine dining. Expensive but spectacular for special occasions.
Belle Isle Estate - Castle accommodation on its own island in Upper Lough Erne. Unique historic experience.
Lakeside Lodges and Self-Catering
Numerous lodges and cottages dot the loughshores, offering self-catering flexibility with waterside settings. Many have private jetties or boat access. Browse our comprehensive County Fermanagh accommodation guide for specific options.
B&Bs and Guesthouses
Fermanagh excels at traditional B&B hospitality. Owners often provide insider knowledge about local activities, hidden spots, and current conditions. Many offer packed lunches for day trips.
Camping
Several campsites operate around the loughs including Castle Archdale Country Park's campground. Crom Estate offers limited wild camping spots (National Trust members) - beautiful but basic facilities.
Wildlife Watching in Fermanagh
The lakelands support remarkable biodiversity. In my years exploring these waters and shores, I've had countless memorable wildlife encounters:
Otters
Lough Erne supports a healthy otter population. Upper Lough Erne's sheltered bays offer the best sightings, particularly at dawn and dusk. Watch for distinctive swimming patterns and listen for their high-pitched whistles. I've been lucky enough to watch a family of otters fishing and playing - truly magical.
Birds
- Kingfishers - Electric blue flashes along wooded shores. More common than you'd think but require patience.
- Herons and Egrets - Fishing in shallows, particularly early morning.
- Great Crested Grebes - Elegant diving birds across both loughs.
- Whooper Swans - Winter visitors from Iceland (October-March) gathering in hundreds.
- Common Terns - Summer visitors breeding on islands.
- Cormorants - Often seen standing on posts with wings spread drying.
Other Wildlife
Pine martens inhabit the forests. Red squirrels can be spotted in Crom Estate's ancient woods. Various bat species emerge at dusk. The insect life around the reed beds is phenomenal - dragonflies and damselflies in iridescent colors hunt the margins.
Best Time to Visit Fermanagh Lakelands
May-September: Peak season with warmest weather, all boat services and attractions operating, and longest daylight hours. Can be busy during school holidays and weekends. Midges can be bothersome in calm conditions near water (dusk and dawn especially).
April & October: Shoulder season offering quieter experiences. Weather often holds well into October. Spring sees wildflowers blooming and migrant birds arriving. Autumn colors in the forests are spectacular. Some boat services reduced or ended.
November-March: Quiet and atmospheric. Winter bird watching is excellent, especially for whooper swans. Most boat tours don't operate. Shorter days limit activities. Marble Arch Caves closed. Only for experienced kayakers with cold-water skills and equipment.
Seasonal Highlights
- Spring (April-May): Wildflowers, lambing season, migrant birds arriving, longer days
- Summer (June-August): Warm water for swimming, all activities available, evening light until late, festivals and events
- Autumn (September-October): Forest colors, fewer crowds, clear air for photography, stable weather often
- Winter (November-March): Whooper swans, dramatic light, solitude, atmospheric mists
Practical Planning Information
Getting There
Enniskillen is approximately 85 miles from Belfast (1.5 hours drive via M1/A4) and 80 miles from Dublin (1.5 hours via N3/A3). The town is also accessible from Sligo (50 miles, 1 hour) and Derry (60 miles, 1 hour).
Public transport exists but is limited for reaching specific activity locations around the loughs. A car is essentially essential for properly exploring Fermanagh.
Equipment Rental and Guides
Most water sports equipment can be rented from operators mentioned throughout this guide. Several companies offer guided experiences including:
- Guided kayak trips - From beginner introductions to multi-day expeditions
- Fishing guides - Half-day and full-day guiding with equipment
- Boat tour guides - Historical and wildlife-focused tours
- Walking guides - For Cuilcagh and other trails
Booking Ahead
Book these well in advance, especially for peak season:
- Marble Arch Caves tours (weeks ahead in summer)
- Accommodation (especially lakeside properties)
- Boat tours and guided trips
- Restaurant tables at popular spots
What to Pack
- Waterproof jacket and trousers (essential year-round)
- Layers for changeable conditions
- Sturdy waterproof walking boots
- Sunscreen and sun hat (exposure on water is significant)
- Insect repellent (midges near water)
- Binoculars for wildlife watching
- Waterproof bags for electronics if kayaking
- Camera (this is spectacularly photogenic territory)
Combining Activities: Sample Itineraries
Active Adventure Weekend (2 Days)
Day 1: Morning kayaking on Upper Lough Erne (3 hours), afternoon Cuilcagh Boardwalk walk (4 hours), evening meal and music session in Enniskillen.
Day 2: Marble Arch Caves tour (2 hours), afternoon cycling section of Kingfisher Trail or visiting Boa Island and Caldragh Cemetery.
Relaxed Exploration Long Weekend (3 Days)
Day 1: Arrive, explore Enniskillen town, evening boat cruise on Lower Lough Erne.
Day 2: Morning visit to Devenish Island (ferry or kayak), afternoon at Crom Estate walking and wildlife watching.
Day 3: Marble Arch Caves, afternoon gentle cycling or visiting Castle Archdale and White Island.
Family-Friendly Week
Mix easier activities - Tollymore forest walks, SUP lessons on sheltered water, Marble Arch Caves, boat tours to islands, cycling flat sections of Kingfisher Trail, beach time on Boa Island, and plenty of ice cream stops in Enniskillen.
Final Thoughts: The Magic of Fermanagh
Fermanagh operates at a different pace from the rest of Northern Ireland. Where the coast has drama and the mountains have grandeur, Fermanagh offers peace, discovery, and connection with water in all its forms.
There's something deeply restorative about spending time on these lakelands. Perhaps it's the rhythm of paddle strokes crossing calm water. Maybe it's the timeless quality of ancient monastic islands where monks lived centuries ago. Or the wonder of descending into subterranean caves carved by rivers over millions of years.
I return to Fermanagh regularly because it never becomes familiar. There's always another island to explore, another channel to paddle, another evening watching otters fish in golden light. The lakelands reward slow exploration and repeated visits in ways that dramatic destinations sometimes don't.
Whether you come for adventure or escape, for paddling or cycling, for caves or islands, Fermanagh delivers. Pack your sense of adventure, allow plenty of time, and let these magnificent lakelands work their quiet magic.
The islands are waiting.